It’s hard to imagine getting blasé about smoked salmon, but I have nearly managed it here in Trondheim. At the hotel’s generous breakfast buffet there’s a special stand, known to us musicians as ‘the salmon station’, where you can get smoked and cured salmon of majestic quality. The salmon chef, or salmonster, if I could [...]

In Trondheim in Norway, where the chamber music festival this week is featuring the music of Australian composer Brett Dean. Stylish posters advertise the concerts around town, playing on the titles of works being performed in the festival, or on events associated with it. For example, this morning there’s a ‘Chamber Music Orienteering’ event where festival [...]

I’ve been in Italy for a few days. One evening I went to a concert in the courtyard of a lovely historic building in Bologna. The Italians are so lucky to have so many of these theatrical spaces and the climate which makes it possible to sit there, in the balmy air, late into the [...]

During lunch in a tiny village in the forests of Le Sidobre, in Languedoc, we got into conversation with an elderly lady who told us that she spoke Occitan as a child, before she was required to learn French. At our request, she spoke some Occitan to us, the only time I’ve ever heard it [...]

An exhibition of artistic sculptures based on pink garlic – how could I resist when I saw the poster outside the tourist office in Lautrec? Pink garlic is a local speciality, but despite its undoubted charms it didn’t seem a promising material for sculpture. I imagined tiny netsuke figures whittled from cloves of garlic, but [...]